Aplatanando

The title of this entry refers to the process of becoming Dominicanized. Since people here eat so many plantains, I guess becoming more and more Dominican is kind of the equivalent of turning into a plátano (you are what you eat). Hence the verb "aplatanar". No one is to make fun of me if my skin has a slightly more yellowish hue by the time I get back to the states.

I have been feeling the urge to write again in this blog but again, just don't know which of the many things going on right now to write about. I've decided to make this entry a tad less anthropological and more personal than usual, and introduce a couple of the main characters in my recent Dominican life. I've also decided to start a comprehensive list of Dominican slang I have learned first-hand and/or attempted to use, which I will keep adding to as the year goes on and I gradually become more "aplatana'a".

So, where to start. I have been hanging out lately with two brothers whose names are both Fermín. Well actually the younger one's name is José Fermín, but he goes by "Fermín" to everyone except his older brother, who calls him "José Fermín" (confused yet)? Fermín and José Fermín are two of 14 siblings, but not all by the same mother. (As both brothers have explained to me, their dad is a great guy but he kind of juggled a few different families. It happens a lot in this country, though it's less common in the younger generation.) So, Fermín and José Fermín are technically half brothers, but they are as close as any brothers I've ever seen. They were both born in Jamey, a town in the campo a couple hours ride from Santo Domingo. José Fermín now lives with Fermín's mom in San Cristobal, a bigger town about 45 minutes west from Santo Domingo and an hour south of Jamey. Fermín doesn't really live anywhere in particular, but stays with his mom and brother some of the time.

Fermín is a full-time abstract artist (painter, sculptor, and performance artist-- you can see his work at ferminceballos.blogspot.com and www.ocana.com) and a self-declared "vago" (wandering person/vagabond). He dresses in all white all the time and shaves his head, so lots of people mistake him for a hare krishna. But he's not. He just likes white, and happens to own only one outfit at the moment. Fermín and I have a lot in common, including that we are both chronically indecisive, introspective, and spacy, which makes for a kind of scary combination, but nevertheless entertaining for all who are there to witness it. Then there's Fermín's younger brother José Fermín, who is involved with Justicia Global. If Fermín can boast the artistic talent, José Fermín has a musical proficiency to rival it. Once he has a guitar in his hands you need a pair of pliers to get it away from him (and even that is not 100% guaranteed to work). He took me to find a cheap guitar in Santo Domingo, and has since been giving me informal guitar lessons (so far I've dabbed in merengue, samba, ranchero, and blues). He also allegedly plays a bit of accordian, piano, and some kind of eastern instrument that I don't remember the name of. Can you get any cooler than these guys? I don't think so.

This past weekend was a fun one spent with the Fermíns. We went to free concerts both Friday and Sunday. The one on Friday was fun, danceable Dominican rock/fusion type stuff, but I forget the names of both bands that were playing. The one on Saturday was even more memorable; the first band, who ther Fermíns both knew well, was called Batey. The word "batey" generally refers to a sugar plantation community usually inhabited almost exclusively by Haitians. So to call a band "Batey" implies that it has something to do with the more heavily Haitian/African-influenced counterculture. The music was mostly based on percussion, but also involved other instruments including flute and guitar. I found out that Fermín sure can sure dance, though maybe not to merengue and bachata. The next band was a Haitian band, that played even more African-sounding music, including one song that I think must have lasted 45 minutes. In the middle of it, I heard gasps and the crowd a few feet away from me suddenly parted. A woman in the center of the newly cleared space was kind of twitching and writhing as two men held on to her, trying to control her movements. Apparently she had gone into a dancing trance, in which she had been temporarily taken over by spirits--something Fermin told me happens a lot at these types of concerts.

On Saturday morning we went to San Cristobal (where José Fermín and Fermín's mom live) because I wanted to check out a literary group there that José Fermín and some of his friends participate in. The group meets every Saturday: sitting in a circle of plastic chairs in an unenclosed cement patio on the second floor of some kind of arts center. The age range of the members is between about eight and thirty-five. They get together to share thoughts about the writing process and read new things they´ve written out loud, over the din of car horns and motorcycle engines from the street. When Fermín and I arrived somewhat late for the meeting after the hour-long bus trip from Santo Domingo, two members of the group were leading a discussion about the responsibility that San Cristobal writers have of representing not just themselves but the emerging movement of writers from San Cristobal. They had a good point: There have probably not been many famous writers from San Cristobal, most coming from urban areas like Santo Domingo. It was interesting to think in those terms; being from the United States and speaking the language most associated with power and wealth, I've never thought so much about one's birthplace being an impediment to being creatively successful, but it is not so easy to have the time to be creative when you are worried about putting food on the table (and/or dividing it between your 14 siblings). Anyone from San Cristobal who is writing is really doing something unusual, and must set an example for other writers and San Cristobal-ians to come.

After that discussion, a few people read poems out loud. The first girl who read looked about 15 or 16, though she could have been slightly older. Her poem ended with the line: "Sigh...oh, how nice to have you in my bed." I was a bit taken aback, not so much because she had written the poem but because she had had the guts to read it out loud. And I couldn't help wondering what the 8-year-olds were thinking. Though the group is meant to be an informal workshop, no one dared to contribute any comments to that one until Fermin offered up, "There is always silence after an orgasm." Laughter ensued. But after a few more people read their new works, I realized that what the girl had read was not really in any way unusual. Just about everyone had written pretty explicitly about some romantic and/or sexual experience. Yes, I know that is a popular topic for poetry in general, but it made me think about how much more acceptable it is here for women AND men to be shamelessly corny, especially in popular art forms like music-- or maybe more than that, the intense pressure to always be thinking about that stuff in such a sexualized culture. Actually, maybe I'm just getting overly anthropological again. But I couldn't help but wonder, "But what if you're not getting any?? What do you write about then?" Well, I suppose you could make something up. That is the beauty of art, after all.

After the literary group meeting, Fermín took me to see one of the main attractions of San Cristobal: a guy who has turned his living space into a kind of walk-in museum, full of miscellaneous antiques. The place immediately catches your eye as you approach it, considering that there is a Volkswagon buggy on the roof with its two side wheels hanging off. Inside, you find a charming long-haired hippie man and everything from portraits of Trujillo to Taino artifacts to antique children's toys to license plates from New Jersey (he had the old blue one AND the new off-white one-- I was impressed). And we left with our hands full of some kind of tropical fruit growing from one of the guy's trees, a bitter fruit I had never tried and can't right now remember the name of. A fun-filled day, overall.